在各类天气系统影响下石臼港沿岸波浪场的分布     

黄爱军  李观金 《海洋预报》1994,11(3):15-25

本文查阅了从１９７３－１９８５，１３年的历史资料，对石臼港沿岸波浪场进行了详细的分类、统计分析和计算，提出了各类较强天气系统影响石（即指石臼港）的极端区域，同时获得了石港沿岸各类天气系统影响下的波浪分布特点以及波高计算式，为保障石港的生产及港口建设为石港的波了提供了有益的分析数据和预报手段。  相似文献   

大鹏湾潮流数值计算   总被引：2，自引：8，他引：2  

王学昌  娄安刚  孟伟  郑丙辉  王增田 《海洋科学》2001,25(12):37-40

应用分步杂交方法建立了大鹏湾边界潮流数值模型，并对其进行了模拟计算，重现了该区域潮波及潮流的分布规律，并根据实测资料对其进行了验证，从而可系统地了解这一海区的潮波系统及潮流场等海洋要素的分布情况。  相似文献   

Wave Decay and Its Characteristics in Surf Zone     

Gu Jialong Shen Xianrong Professor  Hohai University  Nanjing Engineer  The Investigation  Design Institute  Bureau of Communications of Zhejiang Province  Hangzhou 《中国海洋工程》1991,(2)

In accordance with the similarity between breaking waves and hydraulic jumps, the expressions for estimating wave decay and wave energy dissipation in the surf zone are derived based on the fundamental equations of fluid mechanics. Using the numerical solution of cnoidal wave theory, the various kinematic properties of waves in the surf zone, including the relative wave crest height, wave energy, and radiation stress are discussed. The values calculated with the method proposed in this paper are in good agreement with the experimental data gained by other researchers. The present expressions can be used in the studies of sediment transport on gently sloping beaches, especially on muddy beaches.  相似文献   

地震折射波的虚拟射线理论及其应用     

焦湘恒  王修田 《中国海洋大学学报(自然科学版)》1987,(2)

本文提出了一种地震折射液的虚拟射线理论,根据该理论,只要已知地表层的速度,即可直接由折射波信息提取地震参数,从而可实现折射界面的反演。 文中通过实际介质模型的计算机实验结果,验证了该理论的正确性。  相似文献   

Internal generation of waves: Delta source function method and source term addition method     

Gunwoo Kim  Changhoon Lee  Kyung-Duck Suh   《Ocean Engineering》2007,34(17-18):2251-2264

In this study, we investigate two internal wave generation methods in numerical modeling of time-dependent equations for water wave propagation, i.e., delta source function method and source term addition method, the latter of which has been called the line source method in literatures. We derive delta source functions for the Boussinesq-type equations and extended mild-slope equations. By applying the fractional step splitting method, we show that the delta source function method is equivalent to the source term addition method employing the energy velocity. This suggests that the energy velocity should be used rather than the phase velocity for the transport of incident wave energy in the source term addition method. Finally, the performance of the delta source function method is verified by accurately generating nonlinear cnoidal waves as well as linear waves for horizontally one-dimensional cases.  相似文献   

Generation of random waves in time-dependent extended mild-slope equations using a source function method     

Gunwoo Kim  Changhoon Lee  Kyung-Duck Suh   《Ocean Engineering》2006,33(14-15):2047-2066

We develop techniques of numerical wave generation in the time-dependent extended mild-slope equations of Suh et al. [1997. Time-dependent equations for wave propagation on rapidly varying topography. Coastal Engineering 32, 91–117] and Lee et al. [2003. Extended mild-slope equation for random waves. Coastal Engineering 48, 277–287] for random waves using a source function method. Numerical results for both regular and irregular waves in one and two horizontal dimensions show that the wave heights and the frequency spectra are properly reproduced. The waves that pass through the wave generation region do not cause any numerical disturbances, showing usefulness of the source function method in avoiding re-reflection problems at the offshore boundary.  相似文献   

A New Pursuit Mode of Nonlinear Wave Surface     

孙大鹏李玉成  郭海滨 《中国海洋工程》2004,18(2):257-266

The numerical mode of nonlinear wave transformation based on both the Laplace equation for water field and the Bemoulli equation for water surface is a kind of time-domain boundary problem with initial conditions. And the basis for establishing the numerical mode of nonlinear wave in time domain is to trace the position of wave free surface and to calculale the instantaneous surface height and surface potential function. This paper firstly utilizes the ‘0-1‘ combined BEM to separate the boundary by means of discretization of Green‘ s integral equation based on the Laplace equation, then separates the free surface of wave with FEM and derives the FEM equation of wave surface that satisfies the nonlinear boundary conditions. By jointly solving the above BEM and FEM equations, the wave potential and surface height could be obtained with iteration in time domain. Thus a new kind of nonlinear numerical mode is established for calculating wave transformation. The wave test in the numerical wave tank shows that the numerical simulation with this mode is of high accuracy.  相似文献   

Poisson-Logistic二元复合极值模型在平台甲板标高设计中的应用     

刘德辅宋艳  李晓冬 《海洋工程》2003,21(4):35-40

考虑到平台所在海区台风出现的频次及其诱发之风、浪、潮、流极端海况联合出现的概率特性，本文推导出Poisson—Logistic二元复合极值模式，并以平台甲板标高进行实例计算。新模式增加了概率模型的物理内涵，解决了Logistic模型阈值选取的任意性。对海洋工程极端海况荷载组合预测具有广泛的应用前景。  相似文献   

WWATCH模式模拟南海海浪场的结果分析   总被引：25，自引：3，他引：25       下载免费PDF全文

齐义泉  朱伯承  施平  毛庆文  范辰五 《海洋学报》2003,25(4):1-9

利用美国NOAA/NCEP环境模拟中心海洋模拟小组近年新开发的一个准业务化的海浪数值模式WAVEWATCH Ⅲ(以下简称WWATCH),以每天4次的NOAA/NCEP再分析风场资料为输入,模拟了1996年的南海海域的海面风浪场,通过分析TOPEX/Poseidon(以下简称T/P)高度计的上升和下降轨道在南海海域的交叉点位置处的风、浪观测资料与NCEP风场和WWATCH模式模拟的有效波高大小,可以看出,NCEP风场基本与T/P高度计的风速观测结果一致,相应的模式模拟的有效波高也基本与卫星高度计的有效波高观测结果相一致,但从空间上看,在计算区域中心附近海域的结果一致性较好,靠近计算边界附近海域的结果相对较差,但这种因边界而影响模拟结果的范围很有限;从时间上看,冬季风期间的结果一致性较好,而夏季风期间的结果偏小的趋势明显,并且这种偏小主要出现在夏季风期间的极小风速值附近。  相似文献   

Wave run-up and overtopping on smooth and rough slopes of coastal structures     

N. J. Shankar  M. P. R. Jayaratne 《Ocean Engineering》2003,30(2):221-238

A series of hydraulic model tests has been carried out in a glass wave flume to investigate the influences of wave height, wave period, wave steepness, surf similarity parameter, roughness, layer thickness and porosity on wave run-up and overtopping of 1:2 sloped impermeable and permeable breakwaters fronted by a 1:10 gentle, smooth beach slope. The analysis of results involves the correlation between the overtopping energy transfer with the relative wall height and the relationship between wave run-up and overtopping rate. Further, measured wave run-up and overtopping rates are compared with the results given in the Shore Protection Manual (1984), Automated Coastal Engineering System (1992)and results of other investigators.  相似文献